a guide on old displays for retro/vintage gaming in Talk Radio
Revised: 02/22/2023 10:16 a.m.
- Feb. 11, 2023, 1:31 p.m.
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- Public
Revised for helpful video explanation
Gamers looking at childhood games as an adult might think nostalgia remembers games looking better than they are. But they actually did look better then, and can still– on the displays the game’s meant for.
On a modern screen, you can see an old game pixel-by-pixel, but this isn’t the case on a CRT. Here’s an example, modern display on left, CRT on right:
Much of this image is mangled by the new screen. The funniest part, artists designed Dracula’s eyes to be a glowing red, but on modern displays the effect is just a weird red dot.
more examples: see Retro Games Really Did Look Better Back In The Day.
There are many reasons not to use a tube TV. They are heavy, fragile, and can be dangerous if violently damaged. Do not pick one bigger than you can handle and risk dropping it!! They are hungry for electricity, and can keep a big charge1 even while powered off. And the air pressure situation due to the vacuum in the tube makes it extra explodey if busted on impact.
Also, it’s important to keep magnets and most speakers away from a CRT. This will hurt your display. Mild damage can be repaired by degaussing, but too much can permanently damage it.
I warn against shipping these due to expense and fragility. Check out local marketplaces for pickups: facebook, craigslist, etc. You will find something. If you’re looking for something special, be willing to make a day trip. Gas will probably still be cheaper than shipping ;) Even if you are personally willing to take the shipping risk, please reconsider, the supply of CRTs is finite.
Since they are so heavy, I’d go as small as you are comfortable viewing. Mine is 13” and I can carry it under one arm. The 32” we plucked from the curb was so tough for two people. It didn’t work for long, and it’s taking up a shit ton of space because getting it out will be harder than getting it in; I have regrets.
When CRTs stop functioning, it is NOT responsible to just put it on the curb. I know it’s not realistic to dispose everything responsibly all the time. These can become hazards if knocked around so it’s extra important to do so, you just gotta. Unfortunately, a lot of e-waste drop-off spots won’t take them, for the same reasons they should. You might have to drive it personally to a solid waste authority.
But, if your broken TV is highly sought after, someone may gladly pick it up to have it fixed. (you can list it for pickup like this: nonworking TV for parts/recapping)
If you’re not up for all this, some emulators use graphics to re-create the CRT effect.
It can all be adapted, but it’s best to choose a TV with the right inputs for your console– RCA/composite will work in most situations.
You don’t have to worry about getting the best tube you can find. Any random tube set will be better than today’s normal screens.
INPUTS: descending from best to worst. Better inputs can help indicate better sets, just don’t expect the better options in older TVs. In all eras, better options are more commonly found on prosumer models such as the Sony PVMs.
Component
The last hurrah for analog video cables, these are red green and blue for video. With red & white for audio, total 5. A great picture with component inputs is the best CRT you can ask for.
S-video
The better alternative at a time dominated by composite, more likely to be found on TVs starting mid-90s.
Composite/RCA
Yellow for video, red & white for audio. Probably the most likely output/input you’ll run into, by the 90s these are on nearly everything.
RF
looks like a cable jack. The only input you can count on in older TVs. Consoles after the 16 bit era (~90s) will require an RF modulator. This is a separate box to take your other outputs (probably composite/RCA) and output RF. New RF modulators might attempt to upscale, but vintage Radioshack boxes are inexpensive.
BRANDS
Obviously, picture quality is more important than brand, but brand is a start. It’s best to look up the model, too, but if you’re going by a picture from somebody’s garage this might not be an option. VERY rough guide (in USA) of notable brands, with better on top:
- Sony Trinitron: you will probably have to pay a lot for this, if not, grab it immediately.
- JVC: before 2000 generally better, still many good ones after that.
- Panasonic
- Toshiba: best before 2001, still not bad after.
- Phillips/Magnavox: better before and after late 90s.
- Hitatchi: great in late 80s.
see: this detailed guide for info on models & more brands.
Computer monitors can also be a great option. They are harder to find, but will have better pictures (and be smaller) on average. They can connect to a TV console with some know-how. Be sure to get informed on PC input types (which I have not covered) and how to convert them to your console’s outputs. Or build a retro PC too, for a bigger challenge and bigger flex in vintage collecting.
TEST YOUR CRT, IF YOU CAN
If you can, bring your console/s along and make sure it looks great before buying. If you have a flash cart, you can run a CRT test suite. Possibly more on flash carts later (if I feel like it ;)
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this is partly responsible for many of the unique old TV sounds… and the intense static attraction quickly pulling in dust and animal hairs. ↩
Last updated February 22, 2023
TheMoor ⋅ February 12, 2023
Interesting stuff